Murasakino Nishijin Michiyuki

Description

This piece is a Michiyuki, different from that of a haori or yukata. Michiyuki can have different lenghts, from short, waist-line ones to others as long as the kimono itself. This style of jacket originated in the 20th century as an over-kimono coat that was worn for extra warmth and/or protection while out and about. Its low, square neckline was designed to attractively frame the overlapping neckbands of the kimono and under-kimono worn underneath.

Techniques 

This fabric uses a weave technique known as Nishijin Ori. Originating in Heian-kyōto over 1200 years ago, Nishijin weaving is known for its highly-decorative and finely-woven designs, created through the use of tedious and specialised production processes. It is well-regarded for the high quality and craftsmanship of the resulting fabrics, commonly used for high-quality obi and kimono. In 794, Heian-kyō became the new capital city of Japan, with the Imperial Court and the aristocracy moving to the city as a result; due to this, the production of nishijin-ori increased in order to supply the Court and the aristocracy.

After experiencing a surge in demand after the wars, and later on a decline due to crop shortages, and the moving of Japan's capital the production of nishijin-ori was halted until a resurgence in 1872. The production of nishijin-ori began to flourish once again, following a trip by some weavers to Europe in order to learn from the European weaving trade. During this trip, the weavers learned new techniques from the people of Europe, and adapted to the use of European weaving methods and machinery, such as the production of the Jacquard loom and the flying shuttle. By 1898, the Nishijin textile trade was well developed and encompassed the technology shared by the Europeans.

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